I’ve been surfing for 5 years now. During this time, I have surfed anything between 9ft to 5ft boards and I think I’ve found my place on a longboard. Surfing started on a longboard with the chiefs of Hawaiian tribes. These boards were 14-16ft long and completely wooden.
A few weeks ago, I took my first steps on a 9ft board. From the second I stood up on that wave, I realised why I’d always admired longboarders gliding through the water. The peace and serenity you feel on a longboard is unreal. The sport is simple yet creative and style rules all. Its not about speed or complicated manoeuvres but that doesn’t mean its easy. Its actually the complete opposite. To achieve that ultimate ‘chill’ on the board, it takes time and practice.
The major perk with a longboard is that you massively increase the number of waves you can ride and the number of days you can hit the water. Whether its 2ft or 20ft, a longboarder can be in the water catching waves. And you do it gracefully. Longboarders glide through the water, taking steps up and down the board. Many people imagine that longboarding is an ‘easy cop-out’ but the size of the board requires a different kind of balance to a shortboard. Once you nail that balance, its all about building on tricks. The old classic is ‘noseriding.’ This is when a surfer steps right to the very top third of their board and rides the waves from this section
This December I am going to undertake a new challenge: to noseride on a longboard. I will be spending a lot of time on the south coast of Sri Lanka over the Christmas break and I will hopefully be in the water almost everyday. By the end of the break, I want to be noseriding on a 9ft board. This will require a lot of commitment and collaboration with friends of mine that longboard. They will be able to teach me little tricks and tips to make it easier to achieve my goal. I have planned activities with them that will improve my skills in the water. They are experienced surfers and working collaboratively with them will help me in many ways. Hopefully by next semester, I will be able to prove that this collaboration and commitment paid off.